Re: BLOW JOB BRAZILIAN STYLE?
Wendy Rose Gould is a professional journalist who has contributed to "Glamour" magazine and the Huffington Post, among other publications. Gould specializes in lifestyle topics. Whether you broke your favorite glass sculpture or you simply want to experiment with glass-making and repair, you can consider yourself lucky.
Glass is a relatively easy material to work with and can be fun to manipulate, as well. One positive feature of glass is that once it reaches reach its melting point, it continues to maintain its structural integrity. At the same time, however, you can bend, manipulate and even adhere the glass to other glass pieces.
Put on a pair of protective goggles and a pair of thick, fireproof gloves. Since glass gets hot, you'll want to protect both your hands and your face from getting burnt. To be even more cautious, consider wearing a long sleeve shirt. Turn on your blowtorch or Bunsen burner and adjust the flame so that it's blue. Either works fine, but if you want to keep both hands free, a Bunsen burner is the better choice. Hold the broken edge of the glass pipe above the flame, then carefully lower the glass so that it's inside the flame.
Hold it there until you notice the glass begin to melt or bend. If necessary, heat the other piece of broken glass to smooth out any broken edges. Adhere the broken piece of glass pipe to the other piece.
Hold it in place until the glass cools down and the two pieces stick together without being held. Set the glass pipe aside on a piece of newspaper or foil and wait until it cools completely. Pin Share Tweet Share Email. Step 1. Step 2. Step 3. Step 4.The Wall. Click here to Find a Contractor in your area. Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum. If you've found help here, check back in to let us know how everything worked out. It's a great way to thank those who helped you.
Need to contact us? This is not an adjustment that Joe DIYer should ever be thinking about! G Member Posts: November The pump should be psi, the burner guy turned it down to likehe hooked a gauge up to the little line that runs from the pump to the head if that is what it is called Maybe it is the motor it is a short line maybe 4 or 5 inches The screw is it right in the front of the pump that you use to adjust it I think.
Any onfo would be great, thanks P. S it is about 2 years old. There's more involved here The relationship between the pump pressure and nozzle size is critical! If a boiler NOT the burner is designed to run at 1. If you raise the oil pump pressure toa 1. How much time? A few days, maybe a season, but you cannot overfire a boiler without serious consequences.
Conversely, you CAN underfire a boiler! Not beyond the limits of the burner's not boiler's design however! Typically, the lowering of the firing rate by using a smaller nozzle is a good way to begin this process; which in many cases is perfectly okay to do. All the burner guys generally agree higher pump pressure results in a finer oil "mist," which results in a cleaner burn. However, you must use a "nozzle firing rate chart" to determine what a 1.
The way to measure the actual pressure is to look at the oil pump decal, see which port is designed for a gage and attach one to determine what the actual pressure is. Then use the firing rate conversion chart to determine what the REAL firing rate is, once you change the presure on whatever nozzle rating you jave. Smoke and CO are your enemies.
Simple Waste Oil Burners Construction
Excess air is as well. Without a combustion analyzer, you are embarking on a disaster on all fronts! Next question. The chart on the boiler says I can use a. Can i just buy this gauge? The guys at the plumbing and heating store should know what sizing fitting i need are all becketts the same? Also how do I get the motor to run by pressing the reset switch?InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest.
We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website. Oil burners used on oil-fired heating boilers, furnaces, or water heaters can often be diagnosed using a visual inspection approach as well as optional simple test equipment described here. This article series answers most questions about all types of heating system troubleshooting, inspection, diagnosis, and repairs. We describe how to inspect, troubleshoot and repair heating and air conditioning systems to inform home owners, buyers, and home inspectors and students of heating service methods about common heating system defects.
The articles at this website describe how to recognize common oil-fired heating appliance operating or safety defects, and how to save money on home heating costs. We have collected oil burner diagnostic procedures from several texts,  -  adapted, expanded, and generally re-ordered steps in order of most likely to be successful and easiest to perform. For example it makes sense to check for a valve or switch that is off, or an oil filter that is clogged, before we start disassembling the fuel unit.
A good starting point is. You can return here from that article. Start right at the room thermostat. After making sure the control module showed a steady green, I asked a friend and he suggested that I wiggle all the spade connectors to be sure there is good contact between the copper and aluminum.
It seems that there only needs to be a little corrosion to cause problems. That seems to have done the trick. Charles that sounds to me as if the system is turning off because of a safety control such as a sensor that detects a poor burner flame.
Don't keep pressing the re-set button on the burner. You can press it ONCE - if the burner starts and runs for minutes or longer you can have heat while you are waiting for your heating service technician. But if the burner doesn't keep running do not keep pressing the reset button as you risk a dangerous puffback explosion.
My riello burner starts then stops after min with no heat in the radiators, and not starting anymore I can feel hot in the pipe around circulating pump. Right now it stopped. On - by mod - oil burner has been shut down on "safety". That sounds to me as if your oil burner has been shut down on "safety" - indicating a flame or burner malfunction that needs to be repaired. It may be as simple as an oil burner cleanout and tuneup. Watch out: do NOT keep pressing the reset button. If the burner won't keep running after pressing the reset on the primary control the risk is that you keep dumping incompletely burned fuel into the combustion chamber, ultimately leading to a dangerous PUFFBACK explosion.
The signal to the heater does not activate the heater. However when I press the reset on the primary control the heater starts and the hot water pipes get hot and begin to distribute heat.
The heater does not start from the thermostat signal. Thermostats [I have three zones] are working properly. On - by mod - pressing the reset button on the burner. I can only guess with so little information, but it's possible that your blower is not running. If the oil burner turns on and heats up the heat exchanger but the blower fan doesn't turn on to push air across at the heat exchanger will get hotter and hotter until the limit control switch reaches its emergency shut off and it will simply turn off the system.Caring for your oil tank and keeping the furnace well maintained are both essential steps if your oil furnace is going to keep you and your family warm during those long winter nights.
Even with regular care, though, there are some common oil furnace problems that can occur. In some cases, there will be a straightforward solution, and a bit of oil furnace troubleshooting might be all that is needed. Knocking, rattling and squealing are just some of the noises that indicate something is wrong. The type of sound your furnace is making will serve as a clue as to what might be causing the problem.
Of course, furnace trouble comes with other indications besides just abnormal noises. Here are some of the other problems you might encounter as well as their possible causes and solutions:. Possible causes: The thermostat might not be set correctly. Other possible causes are low fuel and blocked air filter. Possible solutions: Check the settings on the thermostat to see if they are set as they should be.
If the thermostat is working, take a look at the fuel tank to get a real idea of the levels of fuel and rule out low fuel as a possible cause. Air filters should be checked regularly because accumulated dirt can lead to poor efficiency.
Making sure the filter is kept clean and monitoring fuel levels as a regular part of oil tank maintenance should help lower the chances of the heating going off. If everything is as it should be, it could indicate there is a problem with the controls. Common issues include blown fuses, exposed circuit breakers or damaged wires. Possible solutions: Check for excessive heat coming from the combustion chamber.
Excessive heat or smoke coming from the combustion chamber can indicate a blockage in your furnace, which can occur in the chimney, flue pipe, nozzle, end cones or heat exchanger. Another possibility could be a lack of draft. A burner adjustment might also be required. You might also want to examine the gaskets that surround the inspection door. Sometimes they become warped or cracked and cause smoke to form. If this is the cause of the smoke, the gaskets need to be replaced.
Also, inspect the furnace for signs of clogging and pay close attention to areas such as the flue pipe, nozzle and end cones. If there is noticeable dirt, then clean the area or replace end cones or nozzles if they appear damaged.
Possible causes: Causes could include a dirty furnace, the wrong nozzle, poor ductwork, a blower motor in need of lubricating, pressure originating from the oil pump or the furnace size not being appropriate for your property.
Possible solutions: Check the condition of the furnace and clean it if you need to. Check that the nozzle is a good fit, and if necessary, replace it. If the ductwork looks worn, look for signs of leaks and use duct tape to seal any gaps. Also ensure the ductwork is insulated properly. Look at the blower motor lubrication ports — they might need oiling — and check if the pressure in the oil pump needs adjusting.
The problem could even be that the furnace is simply the wrong size for your property, or it needs adjusting.You'd have to heat the entire bowl to fix any shape problems, and it doesn't sound like you have much experience with this sort of thing. You don't blow into glass without the proper tools. Even if you could manage this much, you'd still have to temper the glass in a kiln after you heated it, or it will shatter as it cools.
Any way you attempt this, if you don't do it all correctly, it's going to break. Four decades later this mode reappeared more brazenly thanks to the visionary creations of those like Thierry Mugler, such as body con garments with deliberate fabric emphasis at the hips or abdomen to dramatize these areas. Currently the peplum is rising again as today's design dynamos are presenting choices both demure and "Like A Virgin" inspired. If you have dents, you obviously have to heat them and blow very gently so you don't blow a hole in the glass.
And don't use an oxy-acetyline torch, it will blacken the glass. Answer Save. Favorite Answer. Justin 6 years ago Report. Mikef Lv 7. How the heck did you get dents in glass in the first place? How do you think about the answers? You can sign in to vote the answer. Myst IV. Still have questions? Get your answers by asking now.These are a couple of very simple to construct waste oil burners. They will run on anything from engine oil to veg, transmission fluid, Hydrulic and any other oil.
You can warm up some animal fat or lard and they will be perfectly happy with that too!
Free Heat: How to Make a Waste Oil Burner
It's just a bit of exhaust pipe with a 90o bend and a plate over the end to make the air come out sideways not straight. I have tested the design without the diffusion plate and it does work but startup is much harder and the burner is much more finicky on oil feed when controlling the output. The oil is gravity fed from a high mounted container with a gate valve on the drum to control oil flow. The oil is dribbled into the end of the air inlet pipe and is simply blown into the burner by the incoming air from the blower.
There are NO nozzles, pumps or anything else than the oil simply running out a bit of hose. Given the valve controls the fuel flow, there is no fixed fuel consumption. The more fuel and air it gets, the more heat it produces, it's that simple. The pipe is about 1.
The larger the pipe the better the airflow and the more oxygen available to produce more heat. I have some larger pipe to make a bigger version of this blower. A small amount of starting fluid is put in the burner or it can be started with a bunch of old rag or some burning sticks. The Blower is turned on low and restricted to limit the airflow and the oil added till the metal burn chamber gets hot and vaporises the oil.
From there the oil and fuel can be opened up a the thing can be run flat out. This design is very easy to light and burns very clean with no smoke at all unless the oil feed is grossly over supplied.
Even then with a large amount of oil pooled in the bottom of the burn chamber, because the air feed is above the oil pool it still burns clean. This same setup has been used in my furnace built from dirt. It is just the curved pipe with the deflector on the end. You can see in other vids on my channel that I also turned the extinguisher bottle in the 2nd Vid on it's side and the thing ran perfectly well like that with no oil running out.
Nothing on these burners is critical. It is the principal that is important not the size of the components. These burners are like an engine. They can be put to many different uses and power many different things. People have built them for everything from shed and greenhouse heaters to heating and melting metal, replacing gas burners in boilers and pool heaters and in furnaces.
This is to give you the idea of how to build the engine to put to work in the purpose you need. Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. Question 1 year ago on Introduction. Reply 5 years ago on Introduction. After about 5 min max, they should be burning clean, hot, and smoke free. There is a unique odor associated with all things that burn.Make adjustments with the burner running.
This will show immediate results as to what the air flow is doing to the flame. Oil burning devices use flames, as do other types of heaters. These flames can be changed by making simple adjustments to the air intake on the burner itself. With the right knowledge, the air adjustments can be made at home. However, because it does involve a flame, it is important to consider your level of experience when making this sort of repair. If any concerns or questions arise, consult a professional immediately.
Remove the cover on the air intake valve, and check to see if it is clean. Dirt can reduce the amount of air that is flowing through the valve. Clean the air intake with a soft cloth or cotton swabs if any dirt or other contaminants are present. Check the amount of soot that has accumulated from the burner. An increased amount of soot will be generated if the oil burner is receiving low air flow. The amount of carbon monoxide produced will also increase. Find the air intake on the fan, which should be located on the left side of the burner.
Adjust the squirrel cage baffles by loosening the screw that holds them to the heating unit. The baffles will be on left side of the burner near the pump. Slide the collar next to the baffles to the left or right. Each direction will adjust the amount of air moving through the heater, either increasing it or decreasing it.
Look at the flame color on the oil burner as the collar is being moved. This will indicate if there is a lack of air. A flame that is dark yellow indicates less air. A flame that is receiving the right mixture of air should have a white, chrome or blue color.
How to Melt Glass Pipe Back Together
Depending on the brand of oil burner, the flame could also appear light yellow. Refer to the owner's manual for specifics on the burner's flame color. Make small adjustments while moving the collar until the appropriate flame color is reached. Kelly Gray has been writing for a daily community newspaper in the Midwest since and her work has appeared in "The Examiner" newspaper.
A resident of Independence, Mo. Hunker may earn compensation through affiliate links in this story. Warning If you do not have experience with adjusting oil burners, hire a professional. Many homes are heated with oil-burning heating units.
Step 1 Remove the cover on the air intake valve, and check to see if it is clean. Step 2 Check the amount of soot that has accumulated from the burner. Step 3 Find the air intake on the fan, which should be located on the left side of the burner. Step 4 Look at the flame color on the oil burner as the collar is being moved.
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